Lemon yellow with gilded hints. Ample, leesy nose: honeyed orchard fruit, brown butter and spices, smoke, bee pollen. Quite oaky. Capacious, richly textured orchard fruit on the palate: gently sautéed peach, pear tart. Finishes edged in gardenia and stone. A fleshy, exotic Genevrières; we prefer one with more cut and less carpentry. Now – 2015.