Lemon yellow with gilded hints.  Ample, leesy nose: honeyed orchard fruit, brown butter and spices, smoke, bee pollen.  Quite oaky.  Capacious, richly textured orchard fruit on the palate: gently sautéed peach, pear tart.  Finishes edged in gardenia and stone.  A fleshy, exotic Genevrières; we prefer one with more cut and less carpentry.  Now – 2015.