Distinguished, intense and glacier-like on the nose: apple puff pastry, stone, baking spice, citrus, green-skinned fruit, sorrel. This has depth, breadth and width. Pungent, dramatic and classy. An immutable rock of an auslese; for ‘terroir’ geeks like us this is touchdown. Painfully primary, this shows a dizzying array of material to go the distance. Very fine. Till 2030+.