Château Sociando-Mallet, Haut-Médoc 1990

Sociando Mallet 1990

Remarkably youthful, full, dark red color with tinges of purple; only the slightest fade at the rim belies its age.  Flamboyantly rich Cabernet Sauvignon nose: this has great purity and complexity to the minerally black currant fruit.  More fresh than cooked fruit, so more Mallet than ’90.  Overlay of tarred cassis, lead-pencil, smoke, cigar-box.  Very good grip.  Correct acidity.  Great balance now.  The amplitude of Mallet’s typically formidable tannic structure and new oakiness has been tamed.  Indeed the energy and intensity of that ’90 fruit has triumphed over the toast and tannins.  Sociando-Mallet makes yardstick Haut-Médoc but please remember you have to wait for these wines to come around.  They are not flattering and accessible in their youth; if patient, you will be rewarded.  This is in a great place right now; à point.  A fine bottle of Haut-Médoc.  Now – 2020.

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