Burnished ruby red color, very little in the way of color development. Fat, perfumed, concentrated nose: in contrast to the Serafin, all Volnay red fruit here, a bit less macerated and exotic and more the baking spices like cinnamon, nutmeg. Boldly energetic and intense, but what stands out is its density on the palate: red raspberry, Morello cherry, coffee, marzipan, white pepper. Not atypical but a bit brawny – given its location, the Volnay Ducs will always have touches of sturdy Pommard but this has degrees of masculinity that you do not usually find in Volnays. Still some fine, ripe tannin. Very good grip with firming, cool acidity to keep this composed. A fine Volnay Clos des Ducs. Now – 2020.
For the fruit-hounds among you, I would have these Serafin or d’Angerville bottles rank higher on your list. For the terroiristas, these bottles are more expressive of vintage than they are of site. Yes, there is some transparency for sure in these ’90s but I can think of other vintages for both wines that more clearly speak ‘Gevrey Cazatiers’ and ‘Volnay Ducs’. Know thyself and choose accordingly.