50% Pinot Meunier; 35% Chardonnay; 15% Pinot Noir. No malolactic fermentation.
Pale straw yellow. Meaty, expressive nose with a touch of oak: slightly herbal black and green fruit, hibiscus, caraway, candied ginger, almond-buttered biscuit. Lush and a bit smoky on the palate, medium full: black currant, dark-skinned plum, Bosc pear, Braeburn apple, Meyer lemon. Lingering bead. Persistent mousse. Soft acidity. Some youthful bitterness, toast and mineral on the finish.
Broad-shoulders here. More guts than grace but not without finesse. Very good. And it is a NV that would benefit from a couple years stretching out in the cellar. We were impressed by his vintage champagnes (his “Brut Millésimé”) from ’85, ’88, ’89 and ’90 we had last year – a true vin de garde. Certainly a house worth exploring if your preferred style includes the oxygenation you get from barrique fermentation. Now – 2017.