Rich but nicely composed on the nose: velvety citrus and tropical fruit, buddleia, diesel, tree bark, baking spice, grilled hazelnut and hot buttered toast.  A healthy but judicious frame of oak.  Plush and intense, even a tad vivacious on the palate, of full texture and concentration: mangosteen, buttered banana, pear pastry and yellow nectarine.  Barb says, “Apples ‘n Cinnamon Cream Of Wheat”.   At least in first hour+ there is enough good, firm carrying acidity, backbone and grip.  But it became more fat and saturated by the bottle’s end.  Ample and quite concentrated so there is plenty of length.  A canvas of sensual Meursault fruit but not the degrees of steel, stone, salt and mineral of the very best Lafon Meursault Charmes.  A fine wine.  But we think it was a bit better at age eight than it is at age thirteen.  Now – 2015.