Medium-full crimson. Firm, distinguished nose: slightly spicy black fruit, iron, white pepper and stone.  Classy fruit on the palate, full body and texture: blackberry, black cherry, dark-skinned plum.  The tannins are now starting to soften.  Acidity is still quite intense but the wine is no longer brooding, hard and withdrawn beneath its obsidian-like ’96 acidity.  Beginning to emerge out of its structure, waving its ‘grand cru’ flag now, particularly on the nose. The palate will come; it’s just trailing behind at this point. Piquant, cool Perrières.  2016 – 2030.