A touch advanced on the color: full and golden. More bold, less discreet than his Perrières: yellow orchard and tropical fruit, blossom honey, tarragon, spiced brown butter, wet stone. Succulent and velvety with a bit of cream on the palate, medium-full: pêche-de-vigne, anjou pear, apple tart. Builds in dimension and became more firm; more racy and mineralic as it develops. Peacock-tail finish; much more to this at the end than it appeared initially. Not the sheer brilliance and gravitas of his Perrières but a superb minerality, a sneaky length and a fine bottle of Champs Canet. Last bottle on the case. Like most of the ’96s from the top white burgundy producers, this still has a nice future. Now – 2016.
