Domaine Bonneau du Martray, Corton-Charlemagne 1997

Martray CC 1997 #1

From a single large parcel in the heart of the original Charlemagne vineyards of Corton. Separate fermentation of each vineyard block. A year in barrel with late summer malolactic. Full six months on the fine lees in tank.

A golden color.  A pungent, broad, forward nose: slightly exotic yellow tropical fruit, malt, caramel corn and curry flavors.  Turns richer on the palate, medium-full: ripe melon, carob, soursop, coconut cream, all honey-kissed and seasoned in a leathery spice.  A Martray with love handles … maybe even a little back fat showing too.  Certainly not the ‘lion in winter’ we have come to expect from this producer; this ’97 Martray is soaking wet.  Not entirely without focus and lift though; for the ’97 vintage, this actually has respectable acidity and minerality.  So it’s not greasy.  Interesting wine but not the usual dimension and diamond-like complexity of a true Martray.  This is not going to spill over the side tomorrow but drink up if you have them in your cellar.

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