Twenty-five years on tasting.
Fullish garnet red color, faded rim. Diligent, intrinsic nose: cool red fruit, touches of game, clove, white truffle, saddle leather. Intense and En Gémeaux: a deep, iron-ore minerality. Lithe, even wiry, on the palate, galvanic without a hint of padding: forest red berries, pomegranate. Long finish – site expressive with a touch of licorice reserve. While we would not describe this wine as ‘raw’ or ‘rigid’ that ’88 acidity is still quite a force. Like many of the ’88 grand crus, evolving glacially. Others may conclude the fruit will never outlast the ’88 acidity and tannin. We still have confidence in ’88 rouge. Give it time: these will eventually attain true succulence and generosity. Now – 2025.