The color of an energy drink. A profound nose, informed by old straw, ancient rivers, toasted grain and smoky underbrush. Butter pastry palate, more velvet than silk: rye, singed toffee, mock orange, peaches & cream. An impressive filigree to the silex minerality and citric acidity. Not the mid-palate dimension of the ’90 nor the sultress that young Cristal can be. Brilliant all the same as a ‘terroir’ marker. Reminds us of Lafite: with aging Roederer Cristal reveals the true breed of its origin. A great ’88. Now – 2018.