Late ’90s disgorgement.

Its usually green, grassy, lightly toasted self: a leafy apple dew, ginger root, shiitake.  A twist of funky old lees.  Herbal, bready and a bit course, unrefined like provincial dry country wine you find roadside.  But the minerality is rewarding and the wine is consistent to the house style.  An honest, no-frills non vintage.  The gras NV Moets like this one keep well.