A milky cherry red, fading rim. Dense, stern and resolute on the nose: touches of game, spice, red marl and briary underbrush. Closed-in, slightly unripe red berry palate, oh so tart. On this night, the only thing on the grand cru scale with this wine is its acidity, specifically the intensity. Its marked and voluminous and it dominates at present: the overall impression of this wine today is raw, inflexible, immutable. Not an uncommon story for the ’96 rouge. Unformed, tomato-water finish. It’ll be a while still before we might ever use the word ‘generous’ or ‘succulent’ to describe this Georges Lignier. Wait until its 25th birthday at least. Unless, of course, you prefer your acidity in the Big Gulp cup. From 2020+.