Luminous, youthful lemon yellow color. Backward, steely nose: citrus fruit, peach blossom, wisteria cuttings, jade oolong, lees reduction. Compact, with a wonderfully understated tension, medium-full: a sherbet of meyer lemon, kaffir lime, peach pip, cox’s orange pippins. Zip-a-Dee-Doo-Dah-Day acidity, sedulous, citric, racy. There is a flair on display here: dry, nuanced, penetrating. None of the highly-wrought barrel toast that marred the other Henri Boillot examples we’ve tried recently. This will still improve. A fine Charmes. Now – 2020.