Mature golden color. Fat, ripe, estery nose: autolytic orchard fruit, corn pops, dandelion, chestnut honey, bee pollen and stagnant sea air. Unctously textured now, a bit blowsy and veering into tutti-frutti flavors: leesy pear, well-oiled soursop, Hi-C peach puree. That ’96 acidity is present and it does what it can to keep this from spinning out of control but those saturating caramel corn flavors have taken hold. This Lamy is flopping too far forward; out of balance now. Next stop: suntan lotion. Interesting for sure but a reminder that St. Aubin 1er cru is best drunk up by its tenth birthday, even from a top producer such as Lamy. Now past its best.