Fruit from Charmes Dessus, directly below Perrières and borders Puligny Combettes. From 35+ and 75+ year old vines.
Bright canary-yellow with golden hints. A deep and profound nose: more high-toned, warm buttered wheat toast than we recall. Resplendent, semolina-like yeastiness. Has Lafon Charmes ’96 morphed into Krug ’96? Chicken bouillon, azalea honey, distilled hazelnut and pastis. Underneath, a supernal limestone minerality. Texturally this is opalescent lush. Sensual, lobster-like richness floods the palate, with scintillating concentration and velvet purity: persian melon, yellow peach, lemon crème, pear pastry. Lacy, lattice-like structure. Not arched at all: quite “bien dans sa peau” for ’96. Very fine grip. A timeless balance. Lapidary, transparent finish. Grandiose white burgundy; a great ’96. Now – 2020+.