Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Meursualt Charmes 1er Cru 1996

Lafon Charmes 1996 #2

Fruit from Charmes Dessus, directly below Perrières and borders Puligny Combettes.  From 35+ and 75+ year old vines.

Bright canary-yellow with golden hints.  A deep and profound nose: more high-toned, warm buttered wheat toast than we recall.  Resplendent, semolina-like yeastiness.  Has Lafon Charmes ’96 morphed into Krug ’96?  Chicken bouillon, azalea honey, distilled hazelnut and pastis.  Underneath, a supernal limestone minerality.  Texturally this is opalescent lush.  Sensual, lobster-like richness floods the palate, with scintillating concentration and velvet purity: persian melon, yellow peach, lemon crème, pear pastry.  Lacy, lattice-like structure.  Not arched at all: quite “bien dans sa peau” for ’96.  Very fine grip.  A timeless balance.  Lapidary, transparent finish.  Grandiose white burgundy; a great ’96.  Now – 2020+.

Lafon Charmes 1996 #1

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