15 years on tasting.
Inky ruby red, faded rim. Glossy, deft, glam nose: black fruit, tar, char, toasted olive bread, provencal caraway. The oak has rounded off and integrated nicely in this ’98. Lavish, summery-ripe and open-knit on the palate: cassis, black cherry liqueur, dark-skinned plum. Linear tannins. Minerality isn’t all that present. What it lacks in complexity it makes up for in buttery fruit concentration. Modern in style so these can feel a bit anodyne to us but overall this is quite successful. Just not for the long haul: we would think about finishing the remainder of these in short order.