Vigorous crimson, faded rim. Capacious, organic, penetrating nose: a musky mix of reds and blacks, old farmyard straw, mace, sweaty saddle leather, well-hung game. Succulent, velvety and more firmly black-fruited on the palate: creme de mure, leafy black currant, morello cherry. Active grip. Just a frame of melted tannin but this pivots off its acid spine. Vibrant, sumptuous Fontenys. Now – 2020+.