A luminous lemon yellow, hints of emerald. Saucy, lavish, boulangerie nose: your usual Girardin toast has mellowed into sumptuous biscuit and brioche. A vanilla custard texture, ripe and resplendent, a crème anglaise of pear pastry, empire apple and singed hazelnut. Lacy acidity but a modest minerality so it’s missing the layers of information and expressiveness one might expect of this grand cru. We think Vincent may have overdid his battonage in ’00. A juicy Corton Charlemagne. Drink soon.