Straw to lemon yellow. Forthright, reductive, aerodynamic nose: green citrus and stone fruit, freesia, singed almond, blossom honey. Vanilla, spice and melted butter toast from the wood. SO2 is a factor so decant (or use a penny, it works). A cherubic opulence on the palate, fullish with a summery warmth and sunlit ripeness: mutsu apple, anjou pear, lemon crème. Butterscotch and mango undercurrent. Insistent lines of chalk and powdered stone minerality. Still youthfully taut but not constricted so of good length: we find this to be more incisive than the ’04. An almost floral astringence and a touch of wood tannin to resolve. Not singing in concert yet: the acidity here is fine enough to justify space in your cellar to see if this truly blossoms. Now – 2018+.