Yellow-gold.  A profound nose, discreet, poised, complex: a gingery yellow orchard fruit, honeysuckle, singed nut, crushed limestone, fleur de sel.  The aromatic detail here is first rate.  The palate is a model of class, harmony and elegance; it builds concentration in the mid-palate and very slowly diminuendos into a wonderfully explicit, lingering, hazelnut and mineral finish.  The oak, the grip, the acidity: this is all in its place, exquisitely judged, the acidity lending a lensing visualization to the minerality.  Grand cru dimension and distinction.  The drinking window for this premier cru should equal the better grand cru blancs from ’96.  More haunting than seductive; a great ’96.  Now – 2020+.