Yellow-gold. A profound nose, discreet, poised, complex: a gingery yellow orchard fruit, honeysuckle, singed nut, crushed limestone, fleur de sel. The aromatic detail here is first rate. The palate is a model of class, harmony and elegance; it builds concentration in the mid-palate and very slowly diminuendos into a wonderfully explicit, lingering, hazelnut and mineral finish. The oak, the grip, the acidity: this is all in its place, exquisitely judged, the acidity lending a lensing visualization to the minerality. Grand cru dimension and distinction. The drinking window for this premier cru should equal the better grand cru blancs from ’96. More haunting than seductive; a great ’96. Now – 2020+.