100% Chardonnay: 60% Grand Cru from Oger and le-Mesnil-Sur-Oger, 10% Grand Cru from Avize and Cramant, 30% 1er Cru from Vertus and Bergeres-les-Vertus. Late ’90s disgorgement. This is lot #9904B.
Yellow-gold. Most of the goose-pimpled tension of its youth has been shed; this now moves in undulation, with lobster stock and herbal green tea intimations. Discreet, brothy notions with grás, oyster-mushroom and pencil. Resonant finish, with umami suggestions lingering in the empty flute long after the wine has departed. Now.