Twenty-five years on tasting.
Pale fox red, fade to garnet. Primordial, musky-feral and marrow-rich, without the overt opacity of its youth. More mosaic now in its interplay of gently sautéed black fruit with tertiary notions of spice box, demi glacé, lapsang souchong. Still formidably structured and metaphorically dark, with rippling ’88 acidity, firm tannin and obsidian grip. Finishes substantial and peat-y, with a bellota-ham earthiness. Evocative, nocturnal Suchots. Now – 2018.