Fullish, copper-tinged persimmon. Crystalline, hypnotic, botrytis-rich: galvanic, glacé fruit streaked with smoky mineral saturation and a silvery-cool grassiness. Apricot marmalade, candied citrus peel, green fig, maize, veltiver, blossom honey. A wine of amplitude and concentration with vibrant, well-judged acidity: this is articulate for its mass. Detailed, limestone finish. Of Baumard’s sweet Chenins from ’95, we prefer the tension of this ‘Clos de Sainte Catherine’ to the monument-like ‘Quarts du Chaume’. Now -2020+.