Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Volnay Santenots du Milieu 1er Cru 1996

Lafon Volnay Millieu 1996

Adolescent, glossy ruby.  Masculine, suave, mocha toasted.  A fullish weight, sève and saturated.  Clay-rich, black-fruit intensity with impressive mid-palate swell; the texture, a seamless satin.  Creme de mure, morello cherry, black cardamom.  Ample, prominent ’96 acidity gives calibration to its swollen density.  Long, wood spice finish.  But not the lensing minerality one would hope for.  Still unremitting and primary Comtes Lafon.  Needs time to gain in transparency.  Now – 2026+.

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