Water pale.  Piquant, understated and atmospheric.  Airy, transparent fruit with distinction and class, still quite compact, still mostly skin, stone and rind.  Assiduous acidity and grip.  Lapidary, rock-salt and pea-tendril finish.  Correct if youthfully-imploded Ruchottes.  Ideally five years to shake off its austerity.  From 2017.