Last bottle on a case. Gilded and a bit alarming, more than a couple ticks past medium gold. We needn’t worry. Deeply pitched and stylish in its textured floral and herbal essences. Ornamented peach, pear and citrus, drizzled in nut oil, with a tilt towards fondant. But not fat. Underneath, a wine of nervosity, with tension and persistence. Fine finish, saline and citric. Memorable, this one: it engages, not allowing for easy categorization. Haute couture Chenevottes … but still very much Chenevottes. Impressive too: Michel teased quite a bit from one of the more humble climats in Chassagne-Montrachet. Not for keeping, though; for drinking soon.