Immature ruby.  Vaucrains can be hewn, visceral and seemingly untameable in its youth.  This has been fettled over its eighteen years: mineral notes, garrigue and blue-skinned fruit.  No vintage turbulence in this ’96: quite handsome in its marriage of fruit, tannin and acidity.  Chiseled at the end.  A proper Vaucrains, now à point.  Now – 2025.