A regal crimson, just a little fading at the rim to confirm its age. For a premier cru at twenty-six years on this is vivacious with a tilt towards frisky. Spirited, sanguine and quite ravishing for ’88 fruit: forest mulberries and griotte with a redeeming velvet texture that, for a Nuits, can only manifest with time. Still adamant ’88 acidity and a vibrative, stony jab of oolitic stone makes it a scintillating companion for muscovy duck. Old-soul Vaucrains. Will carry on for ages. Now – 2020.