Domaine Jean-Claude Bessin, Chablis Valmur Grand Cru 2008

Jean-Claude Bessin Valmur 2008

The color of alfalfa hay with a gilded lustre.  At once geologic, oceanic and adamantine.  Unshakeable in his composure and entirely convinced (and convincing!) in its Kimmeridgian self-belief.  For a wine that is 20% barrel-fermented this offers none of wood’s accessibility.  Acidity equipped with after-burners and a minerality that hisses.  This is vibrative architecture in hyper-motion: it adamantly dismisses any discussion of fruit character for a future date and time.  Respect his wishes.  From 2018.

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