50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay from grand cru vineyards in Aÿ. A 50 – 50 blend of vintages ’95 and ’96. Raised in barrel, none of it new, without malolactic fermentation. Aged ten+ years on the lees.
Gilded. Panoramic in its suggestiveness: initial intimations of a chest of drawers in my grandfather’s study takes on a saline streak; it finishes like driftwood washed ashore from a shipwreck. Burnished and oxidative without a hint of oxidation: praline, just-ground nutmeg, brazil nut, poached pear. Blocking the malo .. ’96’s blatant acidity .. these give it vivacity and tension; like razorblades in the cake. Richness and lush textures without a trace of fat. Redolent Aÿ. Drinking well now; à point. You can still keep this, particularly in large format. Now – 2020.