Lemon-yellow with an emerald streak.  Bottle variation now: first bottle lacked vim and focus.  Second bottle: substantial yet well-defined balsam apple, kaffir lime, meringue and sweet nori.  Blood-orange flavors and oyster-shell minerality at the end.  For drinking soon: I would say the negociant bottling is best consumed between three and five years on (maybe tack on a year or two in a high-acid year like ’02, ’08 or ’10).