The deepest caste of these three cuvees: fullish yellow-gold.  The ’05s are defined by their ripeness but this Launois has already shuffled past sun-kissed and into its bronzy splendor.  Velouté textured, with humid intimations of roast duck skin, russet apple, stagnant tidal pool, chestnuts and brown butter.  Fully mature, tipping forward now; it doesn’t have the backbone to continue.  Avuncular finish.  At nine years on it speaks like a wine that has already lived a lifetime, with some hard years along the way: not uncommon in this vintage.  Exotic, even a bit overblown.  Bittersweet above all: we adored it.  Just don’t forget it in your cellar.  Drink up.