The deepest caste of these three cuvees: fullish yellow-gold. The ’05s are defined by their ripeness but this Launois has already shuffled past sun-kissed and into its bronzy splendor. Velouté textured, with humid intimations of roast duck skin, russet apple, stagnant tidal pool, chestnuts and brown butter. Fully mature, tipping forward now; it doesn’t have the backbone to continue. Avuncular finish. At nine years on it speaks like a wine that has already lived a lifetime, with some hard years along the way: not uncommon in this vintage. Exotic, even a bit overblown. Bittersweet above all: we adored it. Just don’t forget it in your cellar. Drink up.