Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru 2002

September 2014

Good color.  A wine of energy and definition, an entirely different expression yet just as fine as Les Clos in ’02.  You would think south-facing, sun-drenched Vaudésir is too ripe to go the distance.  Yet these tremulous vintages like ’02 manifest a perfect storm of sorts, infusing Vaudésir’s resiny matière with tension and lift.  You can sense its breeding more clearly now.  Still focused and delicious on day three.  You can still keep this.  Now – 2018.

June 2013

Lemon yellow with an emerald lustre.  A bit hidden at first.  Then, as if woken from its slumber, a smoldering, pungent nose: green orchard and citrus fruit, hedgeflower, iodine.  A primordial broth of stone, silt and talc dust.  Grand cru body and grainy, the texture of fine sand.  More Puligny-like on the palate in its refinement, richness and savor: peach stone, kaffir lime, maritime intimations of nori and oyster.  It cuts green and limey, so deep it’ll make you bleed.  Glorious mid-palate dimension and finishes in mineralic crescendo.  A superb Vaudésir.  Now – 2018.

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