Bottle variation now: first bottle showing butterscotch.  Second bottle: straw with golden hints.  Sunlit ripeness in its expression of ogen melon and mandarin orange.  A touch of wood gives it a grinning, spherical demeanor.  Chablis steel and shell behind and through the center of the fruit.   I like the textural layering for this level: technically a villages, the vines for this cuvée age 65 years+.  Now – 2016.