Twenty-five years on tasting.
Good color, mostly ruby, faded rim. At first, a redolent Corton at full-maturity: sous-bois, enoki, blood, iron. Then galvanic and focused, less organic, with éclat and depth: gently-sautéed raspberry and rôti. Keeping good grip on itself. Redeeming, mineralic detail at the end. Generally speaking, the grand crus from ’89 can still be kept. Now – 2017+.