H. Billiot et Fils, Brut Grand Cru Millésimé Ambonnay 1996

75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay from grand cru vineyards in Ambonnay.  No malolactic fermentation.

Robust yellow-gold with depth.  Tumescent as always, now allied to as much refinement as I recall, a burgeoning delicacy.  Well-seasoned, a wine of nourishment: edible flowers, toasted crouton, pink peppercorn.  Then saline and umami studded, a veal consommé in a glass.  The food is now ready (à point) but can keep for its twentieth birthday and beyond.  Ambonnay in virtuoso; it gives us hope the ’96s shall realize their full potential.  Now – 2020.

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