75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay from grand cru vineyards in Ambonnay. No malolactic fermentation.
Robust yellow-gold with depth. Tumescent as always, now allied to as much refinement as I recall, a burgeoning delicacy. Well-seasoned, a wine of nourishment: edible flowers, toasted crouton, pink peppercorn. Then saline and umami studded, a veal consommé in a glass. The food is now ready (à point) but can keep for its twentieth birthday and beyond. Ambonnay in virtuoso; it gives us hope the ’96s shall realize their full potential. Now – 2020.