Twenty-five years on tasting.
Mature ruby. It’s all yin now, blossomy and baroque with a cherubic glow. Resplendent, caramelized ornamentation of coco, confiture, antiquity and gold: you can almost hear its bells and whistles. Lavish but not especially deep, it prefers a life without complication: she’s here for the fruit and the flowers. But without definitive grip she’s a queen without a future: time to finish these up.