Lemon yellow with a gilded sheen.  Flattering mock-orange, chicken-stock and gingery-spice.  On the palate it’s fat yet well-tuned, has a layered hammond-organ-sound, all peach and pear tart.  It finishes darker, more lunar, flint and iron-salt simmering.  A beguiling Perrières.  You can still keep this.  Now – 2018.