Star-bright. Intricate and fumé on entry. Impeccable key-lime and gooseberry fruit. Definitive quartzite grip. Filigree finish, silvery-cool and lattice-y. Ageing with grace, the wine’s overt hyperactivity coming into balance, still vigilant and tension-filled. Not as powerful as some of Didier’s work, it represents one of his more numinous examples. Last bottle and a poignant farewell to one of the Loire’s defining mysto-farmers. Now – 2020+.