Crimson core, amber rim.  The nose is flattering and suave, such is the caramelization of raspberry confiture and its toasted oak canopy.  Shades of ceylon-tea, 5-spice, porcini.  In the mouth this is more physical and blue-toned, myrtille I think.  ’96 acidity gives it zip without overwhelming the fruit.  Deliberate, soil-driven finish.  No ‘a-ha’ moment, no burning bush, just well-executed and expressive of place.  Drinking well now and you can still keep this. Now – 2020.