Twenty-five years on tasting.
Ruddy garnet, ochre to the rim. Torque-y for right-bank ’89, her catwalk elegance allied to old-fashioned sensibility. She’s inferentially suggestive, a vaudovan exoticism with a hint of animal woven through her iron and nettle fabric. Intricate, russet finish. Commanding without thunder, only nuance. She’s the opposite of facile, the Frida Kahlo of Saint-Émilion. Fine acidity and definitive grip for the year; you can still keep this. Now – 2019.