Ten years on tasting.
Yellow-gold. Wasn’t feeling this one on release: all we could sense then was a winemaker’s ambition. Now growing into himself at five years on, still firm in his schist-y self-belief but harmonious as well. He’s just as suggestive, coming in waves, sec style: intimations of meadow, sea and pâtisserie; a range of citrus, orchard and tropical fruit; fennel frond, candle wax, tree resin, gingery spice. An intensely mineral wine, rock-saline at the end, his energy more positive, beneficent. A beguiling Anjou Blanc. Now – 2020.