Ten years on tasting.
This is AP#4.
Lemon yellow with an emerald sheen. On release you could sense he was fibrously dense but closed off, reductive. At five years on, he lacked definition, overcome as he was by a swollen ripeness and a spurious sweetness. He’s sleeker now, the opacity of his puppy-fat has fallen away, his glistening structure and fine lines of acidity now apparent. This being ’05 he’ll always smell and taste like a peach cobbler coming out of the oven. But with steel underneath he’s ready for the road ahead, his future not certain but promising. Now – 2025.