1997 release.

Youthful color, mostly straw with a gilded sheen.  His cup runeth over, extrovert and fondued with a lobster stock savor.  Sumptous brioche and ornamented nut; whiff of palo cortado.  Drenched peach and raspberry: it left our hands and face tacky with juice.  For all the alluring richness he’s enchantingly light on his feet: citric, centered, articulate.  Unbounded finish.  At the peak of his baroque splendor; for drinking soon.