Youthful color, mostly straw with a gilded sheen. His cup runeth over, extrovert and fondued with a lobster stock savor. Sumptous brioche and ornamented nut; whiff of palo cortado. Drenched peach and raspberry: it left our hands and face tacky with juice. For all the alluring richness he’s enchantingly light on his feet: citric, centered, articulate. Unbounded finish. At the peak of his baroque splendor; for drinking soon.