Chardonnay from grand cru vineyards in Chouilly.  A ‘hommage’ to Julien Barbier’s grandfather, right down to the no foil, hand tied cork enclosure, this release blends ’02 Presidence with ’00 St. Vincent.  Dosage: 4 g/l.  Current release.

Yellow-gold. The nose has both shimmer and depth, where a decade+ on the lees meets chalky subsoil, a hyper-animated interplay of richness and poverty. The palate is impeccable but still a bit imploded. Aromatically polytonal, the palate needs a couple years to catch up to the nose.  Classic Chouilly droiture, energy and cut.  Now – 2020+.