Domaine Chandon de Briailles, Pernand-Vergelesses Rouge Les Vergelesses 1er Cru 2004

Chandon Pernand 2004

Julienne Importing Company, Franklin Park, IL.

Rose-ruby. The ’04 reminds me of Neil Young: three-chords and organic, more than touch of sadness, as much silence as there is sound. The fruit is the just-barely-ripe kind, mature now, currant-leaf-herbal. Stark, unalloyed finish.  The style honors their grandparents, before the days of amplitude and extraction, so there will always be a faithful ‘Les Vergelesses’ to be found here regardless of when you pop the cork.  The fruit is finite so I would say now.

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