Maturing ruby. Vibrant mineral, veal marrow and black-fruit essences with just a touch of Jadot’s wood spice. Then firm and skeletal and tactile for a wine of nineteen years. Structurally still some tannin to resolve yet unlike many ’96s the acidity lifts the wine rather than consumes it. Ringing clarity at the end, articulate of thin-soiled, rocky Charmes. The road in front of him is still wide open. Now – 2020+.