Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., New York NY.

Twenty five years on.

Ruby core, pale rim.  Singed like a birch fire with the peppery suggestion of whole-cluster.  Then the textural, doughy richness of ’90.  Articulate for his mass: the inner symmetry is first-rate and he throbs with energy and nervosité underneath.  The finish is an exegesis on Clos de Vougeot’s savory terroir.  Now.