Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., New York NY.
Twenty five years on.
Ruby core, pale rim. Singed like a birch fire with the peppery suggestion of whole-cluster. Then the textural, doughy richness of ’90. Articulate for his mass: the inner symmetry is first-rate and he throbs with energy and nervosité underneath. The finish is an exegesis on Clos de Vougeot’s savory terroir. Now.