Star-bright, emerald sheen. All Chardonnay, all Mesnil-Sur-Oger, no malo, 6 g/l dosage, and his aim is painstakingly slow and accurate. Ravishing nose, redolent with terroir: forest floor and oyster liquor, rose candy and pencil lead, matsutake and autumn smoke. Wheat kernel, dried fruit intensity, massive body. Tastes yellow and orange; grips white. Ringent acidity, whiplash torque. The finish seeks and grasps, riven with chalk. Now – 2020+.