Star-bright, emerald sheen.  All Chardonnay, all Mesnil-Sur-Oger, no malo, 6 g/l dosage, and his aim is painstakingly slow and accurate.  Ravishing nose, redolent with terroir: forest floor and oyster liquor, rose candy and pencil lead, matsutake and autumn smoke.   Wheat kernel, dried fruit intensity, massive body.  Tastes yellow and orange; grips white.  Ringent acidity, whiplash torque.  The finish seeks and grasps, riven with chalk.  Now – 2020+.